Christmas Markets

In the Pacific Northwest, it takes a ton of fairy lights and candles to brighten the endless December nights. Winter was every bit as long when we lived in Geneva Switzerland, yet it was easy to lift our spirits with visits to Christmas markets in nearby cities. Most markets were set in charming cobbled squares or by a river or lake, and they were lit by colorful lights and bonfires. Tourists and locals would gather to sip mulled wine or cider with friends between shopping forays.

Christmas markets varied greatly by the quality of products for sale. Ornaments were big ticket items, and they were distinctive to each country. In Prague, for example, venders in the old town sold small and large marionettes, carved Father Christmas figures, and big glossy balls to hang on trees. It was fun to wander through the festive market on route to tourist sites by day and to restaurants at night. Occasionally we heard groups of children singing or caught troubadours performing on a stage.

Strasbourg has one of the oldest and largest Christmas markets in Europe, and it takes over the old town in December. We were disappointed to find a lot of candles and ornaments that looked mass produced instead of handmade. Yet Strasbourg’s streets and grand Cathedral dripped with colorful lights, and any excuse for an outing drew us to the pedestrian alleys of old town. We didn’t buy much since we were in it for the atmosphere more than the shopping.

In Berlin we visited an outdoor Christmas market in a field next to a circus, though we didn’t linger for long because of the cold. An indoor market allowed us to browse at leisure, and it was warm enough in the complex of stalls that we hung out by food venders and wine bars. Products ranged from handmade crafts like ceramic candle holders and planters to mass-produced items. After driving to Poland to visit relatives in Poznan, we wandered through an outdoor market that was smaller and only open during the day.

In Paris, we came across Christmas markets in various neighborhoods. The largest one we encountered bordered the Tuileries near the Opera. Throngs of people milled around each booth despite the cold, cradling hot chocolate or mulled wine to warm their hands. We watched a glass blower make intricate figurines and bought a few to give as gifts. After shopping, we retreated to a café overlooking the Opera to warm up.

Closer to Geneva, the sprawling Montreux Christmas market had wood cabins and stalls that extended a full kilometer along the lake. A barn-like structure with a big fireplace allowed visitors to relax and dine after shopping. Our friends introduced us to Tartiflette—a cheesy potato, bacon and onion mixture peculiar to the region—which we ate in the toasty barn. The market offered a range of products like hand-knitted hats and scarves, ceramic candles, glass figurines, wooden toys and puzzles. Again, many of the products looked mass-produced, and I wasn’t induced to buy much.

For serious shopping and to chip away at my gift list, I preferred a smaller Christmas market in the town of Morges, outside Lausanne. It was a crafts market where artisans sold hand-painted silk scarves, pottery, jewelry, and blown-glass objects that you wouldn't find anywhere else. Housed in an old railroad depot, shoppers could stay warm while browsing and chatting with venders. My Swiss friend Vero introduced me to the market and met me there several years running.

Such Christmas markets are harder to come by in US cities, although Seattle has holiday craft fairs most weekends in December. Pike Place Market is always a festive venue, and at covered stalls you can buy handmade products like belts and baby clothes, jewelry, soap and candles. To see holiday lights at night, there’s always the zoo—though it’s pricey—and the ships in Lake Union. Neighborhoods like Green Lake and Meadowbrook host luminaria walks one weekend each year.

Shoppers can also find handmade products at holiday fairs in Ballard, Phinney Ridge, West Seattle and Edmonds, and at the Urban Craft Uprising in Seattle Center’s Exhibition Hall or in Magnuson Park. I’m willing to walk miles—and drive a good distance—just to find festive places that brighten the short winter days and long December nights.

A Plea for Better Beds

Upsides of the Pandemic